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Dec
26

 Apokria

Rikki

Mardi Gras in New Orleans is famous.  Apokria in Greece is a hidden gem.

Apokria, which literally means no meat, is the start of Lent, the period before Easter.  In Greece it is Monday not Tuesday which is the big day.  “Clean Monday”, is the start of Eastertide.  It usually happens in March. Special places to see Apokria are Volos or Tyrnavos in Thessaly.

Technically Apokries, (plural), is a three-week run up to Clean Monday, which is the main event.  In almost every Greek town, young people dress up in disguise.  The Friday before sees whole classes in school in elaborate outfits.   Superman or Spiderman is easy, more difficult are cross-dressing mafiosi, or harlequins.  Special food based on seafood, not meat, and unleavened bread is eaten.

Another Clean Monday tradition is to head out of town and fly kites.  The whole point is to start a period of fasting before Easter, but the origin of this festival is the God Dionysus, the God of wine, and his attendants the lecherous satyrs.  Now the emphasis is on cleaning out sin and bad habits and starting with a brand new, forgiven, approach to life.  

Greek Easter is rightly seen as a wonder to be experienced, but Apokria, seven weeks before, is a Greek treasure.